But after having Pals’ pickle-on-the-bottom Cubano, with ham, roasted pork and provolone, I’m starting to rethink my sandwich philosophy. In my personal sandwich-making life, I’m adamant that meat always goes on the bottom, with the only possible exception being a nice slice of cheese, because there’s always room for more cheese. And by “hand-held” I mean two hands, because these sandwiches are as dense as they are delicious. That’s not a problem - it’s actually quite cozy - but given that the main course meals are all hand-held items, sandwich spillage is something to be aware of. Pals has a big front window looking out to 83rd Avenue that keeps the place bright during the day, but on this cold, dark winter night the lights are dim, endowing one of the best new restaurants with a darker mood. Past hits include the sweet and savoury Berry Barbecue Brisket Sandwich or a soul-warming stew with fresh bannock. Mushkego Cree Chef Scott Jonathan Iserhoff also considers himself a storyteller, which is evident by his improvisational menu that changes with seasonal ingredients. Meaning “robin” in Omushkegowin (Swampy Cree), Pei Pei Chei Ow evokes comfort and explores modern Indigenous cuisine in each of its takeout dishes. Cory Schachtelĭowntown | 9902 109 St NW, Edmonton | fusrepairshop.ca Pei Pei Chei Ow But as my dish-twin at our neighbouring table slurped up the last of his, and I was in the middle of mine, we exchanged satisfied glances, knowing we’d be back again. I don’t know if it’s a matter of putting just the right amount of toasted sesame Dan Dan sauce on it, or if it’s simply so good the chef could never overdo it. But the Spicy Lamb Dan Dan (noodles with lamb shoulder) was one of the most flavourful dishes I’ve had in a long time. When we ordered the Chow Ho Fun (rice noodles with veggies, Fu’s stir-fry sauce, and black tiger shrimp added on), the server said it was her favourite dish, and it was great. We jumped around the menu, picking Truffle Siu Mai (pork and shrimp dumplings with crispy chicharrones) and Jane Doe (rice rolls with sweet tamari-seasoned and hoisin-glazed sausage) off the Dim Sum menu, but the Wok Hay (“Big Dish Energy”) dishes stole the show. But it has substance, too, and it’s mostly noodle-based. If “Coolest Vibe” was a category, Fu’s would probably win. In the small front entrance, you’re greeted by a dim, tasselled lamp and small TV showing static sitting on a table in front of a mirror, giving you one more chance for a fit check before entering the red-hued establishment. Before you sit down in Fu’s Repair Shop - before you even step into the restaurant proper - you can tell you’re entering a place with lots of style.
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